Looking for Magic in Siargao
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I remember that one TikTok of random people on Catangnan Bridge being asked why they chose to leave their past lives and settle in Siargao. They all answered the same: there’s something magical about the island. That came as no surprise to me. I had heard a lot of great, mystifying things circling around the island—the reputed “Siargao curse” included.


Siargao has always borne the “surfing capital of the country” identity, but for non-surfers like me, it had established the consistent Instagram feed of, one, that plank over the lake; two, the overgrowth of coconut trees along the national road; and three, a party island. Late last year during off-peak season, I braved the week-long bad weather forecast and flew to the island for those mental pictures taken from impressions come to life and hopefully seek that magical impact to people.

As my plane slowly approached the island, I was surprised by the substantial population of mangroves with rivers cutting through the thickets that looked like or had a potential to be an ecotourism activity. It was a nice, reassuring welcome banner as we landed safely onto the runway. On my way to my AirBnb in the island’s tourist center, General Luna, coconut trees began taking shape in bunch. I am island-born myself with a daily sight of such plantation but there must be something in Siargao air that this species seems to love and helps them thrive, even after Typhoon Odette in 2021.

I changed clothes the moment I got in my room and seized the day right away to my first agenda: take my first lunch in Siargao at Shaka. The weather forecast kept its word; it had started pouring before my tricycle stopped. I arrived at the huts of Shaka on wet clothes—however, the warm welcome of the distant sight of Cloud 9 Boardwalk took over, standing tall and self-aware of her celebrity status. Repetitive wows came out of my mouth between scoops of my granola bowl. I was starstruck by a wooden structure that got nothing to do with my interests. But that was cinematic, like magic.


Days on the island went slow, stirred up by the unpredictable weather. I would spend hours and hours coffee shop-hopping, watching people while punching nonsense on my keypads. Bronze-skinned Western tourists still felt snug in summer clothes, then there was me, on my second cup of coffee in a parka. They drove around on motorbikes barefoot, then there was me, traveling either on foot or tricycle, wondering if the driver’s license requirement applied across all nationalities. Indeed, Siargao has become the Philippine Bali with these foreign tourists to have seemingly found the very same magic.


Non-surfers should come prepared to find fun on a surfing island. As for me, it was food trip and to experience the community, and Siargao delivered. It is a life-size buffet with so many options to choose from, and a vegan and vegetarian oasis. At night, the island reclothed into its scintillating, musical mantle, bringing another layer of life and character into General Luna’s chain of stores. That made me appreciate the island more—in the dark. To me, that transition was a magic trick.



I still got to take a land tour on my last day as the morning sun finally allowed. I scheduled the trip to spend less time in famous attractions and destinations like Maasin River and Magpopongko Rock Pools and more time up north. Alegria Beach was the ideal destination for non-surfers looking for a decent white beach away from the bustle of General Luna. And along the way, more beaches would surprise you, not only by the minimal number of tourists but how most of the people are oblivious about the island being oversold as nothing but a surfing, island-party destination.

This made me grasp at the thought that I might be unraveling the magic as I got to know and see the island more and more each day; that was, in believing Siargao is a thoroughgoing experience, both for surfers and non-surfers. It is an island that has coconut trees for wands and scepters pointed all together to the sky, an island that doesn’t trick itself out as fantasyland but what’s substantially enchanting, an island that teaches neither spells nor surfing skills but the surfer mentality to everyone, the home island to no witches or sorcerers but alluring-by-heart Surigaonon people, an island that casts magic not to break the so-called “Siargao curse” but rather intensify it.


If I were to ask the same question from that TikTok video, surely I would say the same, but I would add: never come to Siargao looking for magic. The magic will come to you and will come after you. — ❜

Photos and words by SANKA TEAM.